![]() Replaced the clutch master cylinder with a new one (local part storeĬould not get a repair kit) and bleeding finally worked. There was a (not soĮvident) crack in the cup that was visible (picture 3). The rubber cup was all chippedĪt the outside edge (picture 2) but the lip and inside looked OK until Iįlipped it inside out and the cause appeared. Off came the clutch master cylinder and dissassembly (picture 1). Bleeding gave the same result as before! Verified that the hose did not have any issue, so all that was left to check was the clutch master cylinder. So I replaced it and thought I had fixed the problem. ![]() Sound (due to crap that had entered the cylinder - the boot was split) While bleeding, the clutch slave cylinder made some rather harsh All I needed to do wasīleed the clutch and be done with it. (brake pads were almost to the metal), so I assumed it was theĬause. Part : 52253611 Line: VEO Check Vehicle Fit Clutch Kit Disc Size: 8-7/8 X 15/16 X 22 1 Year Limited Warranty Clutch Repair Kits When you need to replace your clutch assembly, a clutch kit includes all the clutch components required for a complete replacement. I also had the "clutch to the floor" problem. There’s a thread here on how to do it, but where exactly is the slave cylinder? And where on the slave cylinder is the bleeder valve exactly? Thanks all. I have a 97 mazda protege, standard 5 speed and the clutch pedal is real easy to push about 2/3s of the way down and then it gets much harder to push the rest of the 1/3 way down. I read on a thread here there might still be air in there and I need to bleed it out. As in my foot needs to press the clutch ALL the way down. Now that I’m driving it, the pedal engages super low. Anyone else with problems with this clutch kit? I see even in this forum a member found pieces of the pressure plate broken off in about a year’s use. I did some quick research prior to purchase but now that I have more time I see in the other Mazda forum this kit might go boom in about 10k miles. Clutch pedal was still iffy so master cylinder was replaced. Overnighted an ACT clutch kit (ZX4-HDSS) and got that replaced. Once OEM was out he said the clutch did need replacing. The shop I took it to ordered the wrong clutch kit and the head mechanic was gone on vacation so I had to scramble and search for a clutch kit that would fit. First, the parts from the dealership were the whole clutch kit, but flywheel resurfaced plus the slave cylinder, which they said was fine. I took it to a different shop as some people suggested. Be sure to discard bottles of brake fluid that are over a year old - brake fluid sucks the moisture out of the air and the water vapor in the fluid can quickly rust out the brake lines in your Protege.Ok, update time. If you need to add fluid to your Protege, it is important to check your owners manual for the correct type to add - it likely be either DOT 3, DOT 4 or DOT 5, also known as silicone brake fluid. ![]() In addition to checking the brake fluid level, you want to look at the color of the brake fluid in your Protege - if it is dark in color or it has been more than 2 years since you have changed it, you should consider having it changed - this will help make the internal components (which are expensive) last much longer. On some Mazdas, the owners manual suggests pumping the brake pedal 25 times before looking at the fluid level, be sure to check your owners manual to see if this applies to your 2002 Protege. ![]() Checking the brake fluid in your 2002 Mazda Protege is easy and should be done once a month. ![]()
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